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Gemstone
Clarity and Gem Grading
Gems
are usually graded by a type (1, 2,or 3) and by clarity (VVS, VS, SI, etc.). Below are the grading criteria used by the Gemological
Institute of America for colored gems:
Clarity
in the type 1 group is classified as VVS (minute to detectable), VS
(minor), SI1 (noticeable), SI2 (obvious) or I (included).
Clarity
in the type 2 group is classified as VVS (minor), VS (noticeable),
SI1 (obvious), SI2 (prominent), or I (prominent, affecting
appearance).
Clarity
in the type 3 group is classified as VVS (noticeable), VS (Obvious),
SI1 (prominent), SI2 (more prominent), or I1 (affecting appearance
or durability). For
example, if you are looking at a stone that is VVS type 2, that
means that it is a type 2 stone with minute inclusions that may be
visible only under 10x magnification. On the other hand, A VS type 3
has inclusions that are easily visible to the naked eye. Some
sellers may use simpler terms to describe the clarity of their
gemstones. For example:
Knowing this terminology will help you make an informed decision when buying colored gemstones from a jeweler. There are several great books on gemstones and gemstone buying on the market. For more information, check out "Gemstones of the World" by Walter Schumann, and "Jewelry and Gems, the Buying Guide" by Matlins and Bonano. Both of these books are a great resource for learning about gemstones. Our gemstones lean to the more natural states of stones, tumbled, pebbles or made into beads. We at Shimmerlings do not work a great deal with simply setting stones into our creations. Determining Pearl Quality
PEARL
NACRE
PEARL
LUSTER
PEARL
SURFACE
PEARL
SHAPE
PEARL
COLOR
PEARL
SIZE
Different Types of PearlsFRESHWATER
PEARLS
One reason for this is that several hundred tons of freshwater pearls are grown in China each year. They are one of the least expensive pearls available and can look very attractive when a good grade and luster are available. A popular way to use them is in rope necklaces made of several strands twisted together. Margherite chooses to intersperse her pieces with pearls. Mostly freshwater, of different shapes and sizes...it is the naturalness of the product, not how it is created that entices her designs.
Natural Pearls - What about natural pearls? It's probably the most asked question of all and the fact is that the South Seas still produce pearls without any human help but a lifetime of searching won't necessarily find enough pearls to make a strand. Being so very rare, they are extremely expensive. Only an X-ray image can reveal the difference between the natural pearl and the naturally cultivated South Sea Pearl. Although even with an x-ray it is a difficult determination between what was placed by nature in the oyster and what might have been placed by man. IMITATION
PEARLS Imitation Pearls are marketed under many names such as 'Majorca pearls', ''shell based pearl" and a host of brand names. They are glass or plastic beads, lacquered or painted with a synthetic 'pearl essence' similar to nail polish, or dipped in a paste of fish scales and glue. They have never been inside a pearl oyster. The first imitation pearls were made last century in Spain and Portugal using an iridescent extract from sardine scales mixed with varnish. It is simple to tell the difference between synthetic and real pearls. When scraped gently against the biting edge of the teeth, imitation pearls are smooth and waxy in texture, compared to the rough texture of real pearls caused by the overlapping layers of nacre. A cultured or natural pearl will also make a slight grating sound when drawn this way over the teeth. Shimmerlings uses freshwater pearls in most of it's creations. And the type of pearl is always indicated in the description of the piece that they were used in. We have used some of the new Swarovski Crystal pearls which look fantastic and have a glorious 'weightiness' to them. They will also be indicated as part of the description. Margherite and Shimmerlings would never intentionally mislead our customers in any way with regards to the naturalness of our products. It is precisely the natural energy that makes Margherite's pieces sing to the potential wearer that leads them to just the right creations at just the right time! AUSTRALIAN
SOUTH SEA PEARLS
Australian
South Sea Pearls are usually white or silver colored, but they can
also come in shades of yellow or blue-gray. Iridescent
overtones are mostly pink or green. Their sizes range from 10
to 20 millimeters, but pearls larger than 16 millimeters are rare. Prices of Australian South Sea Pearls vary from $100 for a 10 millimeter baroque to several tens of thousands for a perfect 17 millimeter round pearl. A necklace of moderate quality pearls might cost around $10,000, but a strand of good quality would cost several times more. Extremely rare strands of 13 to 16 millimeter spherical, silver-pink pearls of perfect quality can bear price tags of hundreds of thousands of dollars. BLACK
SOUTH SEA PEARLS
AKOYA
OR JAPANESE PEARLS
Akoya pearls are usually harvested earlier than Australian pearls, sometimes in as little as six to nine months. Such an early harvest means that the nacre is thinner - frequently less than half a millimeter thick and is less likely to withstand normal wear and tear. Akoya pearls are well situated to earrings and brooches. The Akoya pearls that are allowed to grow for at least four years are very good quality but are also very expensive. Almost all Akoya pearls are chemically treated after harvest to enhance their color and lustre. Unfortunately, the treatments are not always stable, so the strand matched for color today may not look as uniform in a few years time. The real advantage of Akoya pearls is their affordability. A necklace can be purchased for several hundred dollars, rather than the many thousands of dollars needed for a South Sea strand.
KESHI
PEARLS
Keshi Pearls or seed pearls appear identical to natural pearls, and are a by-product of pearl culture. The international term keshi means 'poppy seed' in Japanese, and is a reference to the small size of these pearls, which are seldom more than a few millimetres in diameter. Keshi pearls are popular because they are made of solid nacre and usually have a bright luster. Their irregular shape can be a stimulus and challenge to jewelry designers and some of the most innovative jewelry is made using them. MABE
PEARLS Mabe
Pearls, or half - blister pearls as they are known in the jewelry
trade, are made by glueing several hemispherical plastic beads to
the inside of pearl oyster shells. Mabe is the Japanese name
for the winged oyster, Pteria penguin, in which these pearls are
commonly grown. They are also grown in silver-lipped pearl
oysters (Pinctada maxima) that have already grown round pearls.
The
half pearls, about one millimeter thick, are drilled off the shell
using a diamond-tipped hole saw and the nucleus is removed.
The half pearl now resembles half an empty egg shell. The
inside is then scraped to remove any brown organic stain and
sometimes it is painted to enhance color and lustre. It is
then filled with resin, backed with discs of mother-of-pearl and
joined edges ground smooth. The resulting product is a mabe
pearl. Mabe
pearls have thinner nacre than many other pearls and the
mother-of-pearl disc that backs it is attached with glue. This
means that mabe pearls are not as robust as round pearls and should
be treated with care to keep them from coming apart. Mabe pearls are only a fraction of the price of whole pearls. A pair of good quality mabe, processed and ready to set into jewelry, can be bought for $100 or so. The size of mabe pearls varies from 12 to 20 millimeters in diameter. Most are round to shape but drops, hearts, and ovals are also made. MORE INFORMATION There is a great deal of more information to be had on pearls, and I suggest these sites for your learning experience:
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Sidhe Queen
Scathach From the Isle of Skye Copyright ©
2004 Shimmerlings, Inc. ~ Jeane Margherite Meria |